Famous panini shops in Florence - I Fratellini & All'antico Vinaio
After having been in love with the small tucked away panini shop I Frattelini for years, I knew I had to try another famous panini shop, All’antico Vinaio, that I had recently been hearing so much about. So, on my last trip to Florence I made a point of trying them both so I could compare :)
I Fratellini
(*I’ve added a 2022 update at the bottom of the post)
Open since 1875, I Fratellini (Little Brothers), also know as I Due Fratellini (two little brothers), is literally, a little hole in the wall wine and sandwich shop in the historic center of Florence. Just an opening with a bar and if you walk by the small quiet side street too quickly you will miss it, in fact, if there isn't a crowd of people in front of the place you can barely tell it's there. When it's closed with it's door down it is anything but amazing looking and you would never know that a delicious little panino filled world lies behind.
There is something so romantic about this place for me. I think it paints the perfect picture of the simple and delicious way Italian's do food and I love that it is small, hidden away and that the walls are busy with wine bottles and time. I love the history and that it has been there, just like that, for so so long. There are many amazing quick places to eat in Florence, but there is something different here....something that draws me back every time. Something…just so Italy. It is a must stop, a must see, and a must try....again and again and again.
Every sandwich starts with a crispy buttery baked to golden brown perfection roll that is oiled and warmed to bring out it's natural flavors. It is then layered up with it's various meats, cheeses and veggies, all sourced from small Tuscan producers and all deliciously Italian. They have a long menu of 29 sandwiches to choose from, and it can seem a bit overwhelming at first glance but the sandwiches are all fairly simple with only a few ingredients in each. I'm pretty sure you couldn't go wrong with any choice, so just pick your favorite number :) #1 is one of my favorites - Ham (prosciutto), soft goat cheese and arugula....so good! There is usually a line but it moves fast and the service is friendly. Your sandwich will be ready almost as quickly as you can order it with one brother taking orders and pouring the wine and the other putting the sandwiches together. You can sip on a glass of one of their many wines (which comes in a cute glass wine glass) while you stand or sit on the curb to enjoy your lovely little piece of Italian heaven. When you are finished you can leave the glass on the small but perfect shelves to each side of the counter. They are open everyday of the week from 10 am to 5 (17:00) pm or until the bread runs out....which I love!
Their address Via dei Cimatori 38/red, 50122 Florence, Italy. Right by the Orsanmichele Church. The cross street is Via dei Calzaiuoli. Phone 39-055-239-6096.
As of November 2019 the sandwishes were 4 euros each :) And totally worth every cent!
All’antico Vinaio
Slightly younger than I Due Fratellini, All’antico Vinaio opened it’s doors in 1989 after buying the business from the original owners that opened it in the 60’s. It is located in the historic center of Florence just steps from Piazza della Signoria. Since it’s opening they have made a big name for themselves as well as making the schiacciata* something that cannot be missed on a trip to Florence. They started out with just one location along Via Neri but since have grown to have four locations right next door to each other…with one of the being the Oteria All’antico. They also have locations in Milan, New York, Los Angeles and then their newest opening at I Gigli, a shopping center in the suburbs of Florence. Not bad huh! This place should also get kudos for having the most reviews of any sandwich shop around too. As of January 2021 they are at 22,000 on Google and just over 29,000 on Trip Adviser. Pretty amazing!
This place was impressive at first sight with it’s selection of panini and front display case filled with huge rounds of Porchetta, a pork loin filled with seasonings and then rolled up tight and wrapped in pork belly before being roasted into a juicy succulent heaven wrapped in a crispy golden dream….ummm...yumm!! And this was just one of the many scrumptious items to choose from! All’antico Vinaio’s panini are served on schiacciata* which is a traditional Tuscan flatbread that looks quite a bit like focaccia. The menus of the sandwich selections are placed on each side of the opening of the shop so you can peruse what they offer while you wait. Along with the menus and porchetta rounds, while you wait, you will also see some bottles of wine and glasses that are outside and waiting for you to help yourself if you have ordered some. I loved this so much! I wonder if it will be around in the future? When we visited it was pre-pandemic. I fear it may be one of those things that never returns…we will see! As you approached the counter you are able to see a bit clearer what you were getting yourself into. The small room was cut in half by the large display case of meats, cheeses and fillings. One half was the food and prep area and the other half was the line of people waiting for everything to be prepped. You order at the beginning of the bar and pay at the end and don’t worry if the line is long. It moves fast! Take your schiacciate to go or stay and enjoy them at the small bar. A few young men worked fast but smoothly putting the sandwiches together for the hungry customers. The wall behind all the action was lined with bottles and bottles of red and white liquid poetry, golden olive oil and mirrors to reflect all the magic. Every schiacciata panino starts with a large square of this golden just warmed flatbread. You can choose from their menu of fantastic and famous selections or you can choose from your own. They also have seasonal selection too. My husband and I shared La Favolosa and La Inferno so we could try a couple different ones. La Favolosa was definitely my favorite of the two. It’s no wonder it’s at the top of their menu! And it’s no wonder why this place is so popular!
Their address(es) - Via dei Neri, 65,74,76,78, 50122 Florence Italy. Take Via della Ninna from Piazza Signoria to Via dei Neri. The location above are on both sides of the street. The cross street is Via Osteria del Guanto. They are open everyday of the week from 11:30 to 3 (15:00) and then again from 6 to 9:30 (18:00-21:30). Phone number 39-055-238-2723
Sandwiches range from $6-$8 each
*What is Schiacciata?
Schiacciata means pressed in Italian and these schiacciate can come in a few different forms. The ones that All’antico Vinaio serves are the classic Tuscan Schiacciata that look like Focaccia. Schicciata bread is made up of flour, salt, oil, yeast and water so it is very different from the Tuscan table bread that is made without salt. You may see them with savory toppings like tomatoes or with grapes like the Schiacciata all’Uva which is popular during harvest time. Some might be round and have an amazing filling while another might be a cake :) like Schiacciata alla Fiorentina which is popular around Carnivale time.
So which sandwich shop (paninoteca) was my favorite?
Let me start off by saying that one is definitely my favorite but both are incredible and definitely worth a visit on your next trip to Florence!
That being said…the winner for me is I Due Fratellini. My main reasons are that I prefer the softer rustic roll to the slightly tougher and larger Schiacciata. For me the balance of bread to filling was more enjoyable at I Due Fratellini as it felt more like a sandwich and less like bread with some amazing accompaniments. As far as fillings go, both places were delicious and I really don’t have one that I liked more than the other. They both offer combinations that they have created, but they are both happy to let you put together your own as well. As far as the atmosphere of the places I am also more in favor of I Due Fratellini because is feels more rustic and almost small town even though it is in the middle of the historic center. I love that it is barely more than a window from the outside and when you are in front of it you can feel it’s history. All’antico Vinaoio feels slightly more commercial and maybe a bit more touristy even though both places are not lacking in tourists. So, even though I Due Frattellini has officially stolen my heart, I will be returning to All’antico Vinaio on my next trip to Florence as well :)
Have you been to both of these sandwich shops? Do you have a favorite?
*I returned to I Frattelini in the spring of 2022 and I was so sad to see that they had changed their panini rolls to the schiacciata bread like All’antico Vinaio. I’m sure they are just trying to keep up with the success of All’antico Vinaio but it was a sad day for me! :(