When most people think of visiting Venice, they think of the famous glittering sites like The Grand Canal and The Rialto Bridge or Piazza San Marco and it’s ornate Basilica, but they don’t always think of (or get a chance to be a part of) the more intimate daily workings of the city. The people and places that make it to flow….the enchantment behind the buildings and facades. The real Venice really. More than any church or landmark, this is the side of Italy that has always stirred my soul.

Venice is easily the most magical and enchanting city in the world and is something you have to experience for yourself because no second hand version will ever do! For our travel experiences I like to search out simple but engaging ones that a family with 3 young children could have. On our first visit to Venice as a family in November 2019 one of the main intentions during our visit was to go on a Gondola for the first time, so I thought it would be enlightening to see what else we could learn about gondolas along the way.

After a bit of research Lo Squero di San Trovaso and Osteria al Squero made it to the top of my list. They should be at the top of your list too…especially if you are a Gondola lover, Cichetti* (“chee-KEH-tee”) lover, people watching lover, or a lover of the beauty in the simple and authentic experiences of the every day.

If you missed my other posts on Gondola experiences, I’ve linked them below.

So, on one cool November morning of our trip we set off on a quiet walk through the neighborhoods of Santa Croce and Dorsoduro with a final destination of the Lo Squero boatyard and Osteria al Squero. We would enjoy some Venetian Cicchetti along the canal while watching Gli Squeraroli (the boat craftsman) work on building and repairing the gondolas. A perfectly simple experience that would leave us full, entertained, informed and ready to see the the city (and gondolas) with new eyes.

It didn’t all work out perfectly that first trip as the boatyard ended up being closed that day (Sunday..I should have known really!) but we still enjoyed ourselves immensely. We looked out at the view of the boatyard and imagined it in action while we stood along the Fondamenta (the walkway along the canal) devouring every morsel of our Cicchetti and sipping on our spritz from Osteria al Squero. We watched the birds and the local Venetians enjoying a snack just like us. We watched and listened gentile sounds of the small waves splash up on the Fondamenta and then make their way into the water again. We watched and listened to the rhythmic hum of the boats and life going about their day up and down the canal. We watched, we listened, we ate…and we savored it all! And even though it wasn’t as perfect as I had imaged, the experience of visiting these two places is one of the ones that stands out to me most from our time in Venice.

When we returned here in May of 2022 we were able to see and savor ever detail all over again….including watching the boatyard in full action this time. It was wonderful! We also decided to get double the food that we did before because it was so mouthwatering…..honestly it still wasn’t enough…haha! One thing is for sure is that this experience is going to be one we return to over and over again!

These simplistic experiences may not be for everyone (although they probably should be) but for me they are fuel to the constantly burning flame I have for this country. They are real. They are everyday. They are connection. They are life. They are sweet. They are inspiring. They are memories in the making. And they are so unbelievably delicious!

Lo Squero di San Trovaso, venice

Lo Squero is where they create, build and repair that sleek and elegant gondola that we all know and love. Lo Squero di San Trovaso is the oldest in Venice and dates back to the 1700s. It is one of only a few remaining boatyards that remain in Venice today. Gondolas are built by hand and need regular maintenance so this boatyard is always at work…except on Sundays…haha! It is located next the the Church of San Trovaso in the Dorsoduro neighborhood. It isn’t open to the public but it may be possible to get a look from Campo di San Travaso if the back door to the workshop is open. If it is closed, do not disturb them. I wouldn’t want to be the tourist that made one of the workers put down everything to check the door :) If your curiosity just can’t be stifled, it is possible to book a tour with Lo Squero di San Trovaso itself >>HERE<<. However you experience it, it is fascinating to see this place and the care that goes into creating and caring for these beautiful boats.

Lo Squero di San Travaso is located at Fondamenta Bonlini, 1097 - Website >>HERE<< It is in Italian except for the page above with information on visiting.

Osteria Al Squero , Venice

This Osteria is the perfect place to pick up some local Cicchetti* and a spritz. One of my preferred experiences! :) Even though there were some tourists in the mix, Osteria al Squero definitely felt like a locals spot. While waiting in line behind some cute Nonnas I could here that sweet song of the Italian language filling the small quaint interior. From the food, to the decorations, to the people, it all felt very authentic….very Venetian. I was in love after my first step in the door and completely head over heels once I got a glimpse of the cicchetti. There are a few places to sit inside but this is not a restaurant with proper tables and menus full of items to choose from. You simply order what you want from the lovely and enticing display cases at the counter. If you’re not sure what you’re looking at, just ask the staff. Many items were not marked and or apparent as to what they were but the staff was friendly and even though I spoke to them in Italian I did hear them speaking English to another couple ordering. Everything was incredibly affordable too, just 1-2 euros each. Another sign that this is more of a locals place than a tourist place. I put together a small plate to go along with a couple of spritz (3 euros each!!), paid and was on my way. If you are able to sit and enjoy your Cicchetti and drink inside then you will receive glasses for your drinks (this was pre-Covid). We weren’t able to sit inside so instead we enjoyed our goodies in to-go dishes out along the Fondamenta. Either way has it’s charms.

Osteria al Squero is located at Dorsoduro 944 - Website >>HERE<< It is in Italian

So What are Cicchetti?

Cicchetti are the Venetian equivalent to the Aperitivo. Small snacks accompanied by a glass of wine, a spritz or other cocktail. They are usually served at a Bacari (a Venetian bar) and they are often very affordable. They are an enjoyable and easy way to experience Venetian cuisine, and in my opinion they are a perfect lunch! You can also make a great and unforgettable dinner out of them by doing a “Cicchetti Crawl” where you visit multiple Bacari :)

Where to go after the “Lo Squero” experiences?

For A Sweet Tooth After Your Cicchetti - Head on over to Gelateria Lo Squero, just a short walk up the Fonadamenta towards the grand canal at Fondamenta Nani, 990

For Art - visit the Accademia Gallery. A Venetian art museum at Campo della Carità, 1050 or the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. A waterside palace with a 20th-century art collection & a sculpture garden. Located at Dorsoduro, 701-704.

For A View - Head along the waterfront fondamenta to the Punta della Dogana. This is the perfect place for almost a 360 view of Venice at water level. From here you can see Piazza San Marco as well as across the lagoon to The Church of San Giorgio Maggiore and Giudecca Island. It is definitely a picture perfect spot!

For Beauty - head to The Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. This Spectacular domed baroque style church was built by the Venetians in the 1630’s. After Venice was hit hard by the plague, the Venetians decreed that if the city was delivered from the plague that they would build a church and dedicate it to the Virgin Mary. This octagonal church sits up on a pedestal of steps right along the waters edge. The interior is some of the most beautiful you will see. From the decorative marble floors that draw you into the center of the room to the exquisite hanging lanterns with accents of red, this church will take your breath away.

Other Venice experience -

Venice - The other Gondola Experience - La Forcola

Venice - The Gondola Experience

Buon viaggio e a presto!

Lonielle

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