Tuscany Day Trips - Sightseeing in Pitigliano
Pitigliano, Tuscany
Pitigliano, tuscany
This little jewel of a town showed me that I should never decide whether or not to see a place by walking around it on Google Maps…haha…sounds ridiculous, but it was true! I had wanted to see Pitigliano after our Italy trip a few years ago, but when I found myself back in the area again, I just wasn’t feeling it. And when I went to take another look at the town on google maps it just confirmed how I felt, and so I decided to cancel trying to visit. But, as it turns out, the universe wanted me to see it even if I didn’t think I did. We had a few free hours right in the area of Pitigliano before we made our way to the thermal bathes of Il Mulino at Saturnia (link here to my recent blog post about them), and it would have been foolish not to see it. And so, with a short window of time where there would be no rain, we went :)
As we were approaching Pitigliano I was watching the GPS to keep track of when it would be coming into site. I love that first view of a hill town. Sitting majestically on it’s hill, looking down at whomever may be approaching. The silhouette of buildings against the sky always feels as though it has come straight from a fairy tale. I feel like it is an experience by itself. As we were getting closer to the little flag on the GPS I wasn’t seeing what was expecting! We were right on top of it but still nothing in site. I was starting to feel a bit gypped. Where was my fairy tale site?! And then, all of the sudden, there it was! And it was nothing like what I was expecting. It caught me off guard and I loved it! It was perfect. I smiled and sighed that sigh that only true Italy worshipers know…sighing again….
Visiting Pitigliano
We only had a few short hours to see Pitigliano so we weren’t going to be visiting any museums or eating any 3 hour long meal, but that was ok. It meant that we got to one of my favorite things….wander and discover, and this town was a delight to do both. There is a little bit of everything here which makes it very picturesque. Lovely streets with planters and flowers guide you through the town. Charming fountains and shops take your attention in between gazing out at the breathtaking views from the piazzas and slender alleyways. Cats stop and say hello as you pause to take in an old door or window. Nothing feels overwhelming or touristy here and since the ancient part of the town sits out on a narrow tufa rock ridge it is impossible to get lost…except in a dream.
EXPLORING THE HISTORIC CENTER - Piazza Garibaldi is the first you will come to in the historic center and you will arrive here by taking the walkway from the Via Marconi parking (see below) area or from the darling, view studded Piazza Francesco Pettrucioli right off the SR74. There is additional parking in Piazza Garibaldi too if you are brave enough in the center :) Passing through Piazza Garibaldi you will arrive at the Medici aqueduct which will drop you into Piazza della Repubblica and The Palazzo Orsini Museum. Piazza Fortezza is next (see more below) with it’s twin fountains at each end of the piazza, and the Fontana delle Sette Cannelle. From here, there are really only two main streets (that become one) in the historic center, that lead you to the tip of the ridge, Via Zuccharelli and Via Roma/Via Generale Orsini. I recommend starting your walk on Via Zuccharelli (left side) as nearly every little side street you come across to the left will have a stunning view! I found myself remarking at the beauty of one, only to be met with even more jaw dropping views at the next street. Along with the view there are also a few nice shops worth looking at along the way, so stop while you can :) When the two main streets come back together again you will be in front of Chiesa di San Rocco (see below). Continue on down to the end of the road in Piazza Becherini to enjoy the view before you turn around. When you run back into Chiesa di San Rocco take the street to the left, Via Generale Orsini (this becomes Via Roma), this will lead you back in the direction you came but with a different view :) And it will lead you to the main cathedral in Pitigliano (see below), Cattedrale dei Santi Pietro e Paolo - The Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul. The road becomes Via Roma at this point. Visit the cathedral and enjoy this sweet little piazza for a few. And maybe with a panino from Le Logge like us :) As you continue walking back, check out side streets and stop and enjoy some of the unique artisanal shops along the way to those first three piazzas. If I had had more time I would be the proud owner of some gorgeous tiles painted with Italian doors and window. I’ll be back to get them :)
CHURCHES, MUSEUMS AND SITES -
Pitigliano Cathedral - Cattedrale dei Santi Pietro e Paolo is Pitigliano’s main church. It sits in the middle of the historic center in the charming Piazza S. Gregorio VII. It dates back to the 15th century but has been restored and updated many times, including change to the alter from the original Romanesque design to Baroque in the early 1700’s
Chiasa di San Rocco - Said to be the oldest church in Pitigliano, it dates back to the 12th century. Unfortunately it wasn’t open when we were visiting but it looks to be worth a peek inside if you see the doors open :)
Palazzo Orsini Museum-
Palazzo Orsini was originally built for a convent between the 11th and 12th centuries and then was turned into a residence in the later part of the 13th century. The Orsini family later restored it and turned it into an elegant palazzo. Other than the Palazzo Orsini museum, it also houses both The Archaeological Museum and The Museum of Sacred Art.
Medici Aqueduct -
Commissioned by the Medici family and build in the mid 1600’s, this aqueduct, made from locally sourced tufa rock, brought running water to the people of Pitigliano. It is built into the city walls and it is definitely one of the stars of the town. I guarantee one or two pictures of it will be coming home with you :)
Jewish Synagogue and museum
Pitigliano has the nickname Little Jerusalem because of the large Jewish population that fled here from Rome in the mid 1500’s. You can visit the old synagogue (restored in 1995) along with the museum which includes underground rooms carved in the tufa rock that were used for the kosher butcher, a special oven for making unleavened bread, and a ritual bath. It is open year around except Saturday. Because of the large Jewish community, over time, Pitigliano has come to be known for their Kosher wines as well as a local sweet pastry called “Sfratto di Goym”. HERE is a recipe and some interesting information on the origins of the pastry.
PIAZZAS and VIEWS
Piazza Garibaldi, Piazza della Repubblica and Piazza Fortezza -
These piazzas are all back to back as you arrive in the historic center. Piazza Gariboldi is nice to look at and there are a few shops and restaurants but nothing that we keep you hanging around too long. Piazza della Repubblica houses the Palazzo Orsini Museum. And then last but not least is Piazza Fortezza. This piazza stretches from one side of the town to the other and boasts breathtaking views on both as well as twin fountains and views at each end. The southern side the piazza also has La Fontana delle Sette Cannelle - The Fountain of the Seven Spouts. This fountain dates back to the mid 1500’s and was commisioned by Count Gianfanco Orsini. The fountain gets it’s name from the original 7 working spouts all with different animal head sculptures. Above the fountain are 5 tufa rock arches.
The day we visited there was a car show with green, red and white vintage cars lining each side of the piazza. There were older Italian men gathered in little groups, each having a conversation probably about the same thing. It made the piazza lively with Italian chatter and gave very festive feel to everything with the colors of the Italian flag sitting all around.
Piazza S. Gregorio VI
The lovely piazza in the home of the Pitigliano Cathedral and it is right in the heart of the historic center. When we were there it was quiet because of the rain but it didn’t take away from the it’s charm. I could have sat there for hours if it weren’t for the weather and that we had somewhere else to be shortly. Other than the enjoying the glory and details of the facade of the cathedral, there are a few restaurants in this piazza, including Le Logge where we had a fantastic panino…and probably a spritz!
Piazza San Rocco
I actually don’t know the name of this petit piazza but since it houses the Chiesa di San Rocco I think this name is pretty safe :) The two main roads meet here and then you can continue on down Via Aldobrendeschi to Piazza Becherini. We didn’t make it Piazza Becherini because we didn’t have a lot of time but there is a view there to behold and it is only a few minutes past the church. Piazza San Rocco was picture perfect and so I had to take quite a few. My two favorites (see below) are the wall of doors and windows and then the one where my husband is standing in a handicap parking space. Coming from the United States this space seems impossibly small…lol. Am I wrong?
View from Around Town
HOW TO GET THERE - Pitigliano sits in the provance of Grossetto in southern Tuscany. It is just a little over 2 hours drive from Rome (we came this way) and a little under 2 hours drive from Rome’s Fiumicino airport. Located on the SR74, Pitigliano is just 25 min from Lake Bolsena, a 30 min drive from the thermal bathes of Saturnia, a 45 min drive from Civita di Bagnoreggio, and an hour drive from Orvieto.
PARKING - You will most likely be coming into town on the SR74. As you approach the historic center there is quite a bit of street parking on Via San Michele (pay parking with to die for views - see first pic in this post) and Via Marconi (free parking.)